Ask the Expert

Ensuring that you install the right size furnace, air conditioner, heat pump or complete HVAC system is critical to providing consistent indoor comfort for you and your family. It's also important for saving energy, which can be wasted by either a too-large or too-small system. Since energy savings translate to monetary savings, in today's economy you simply can't afford to ignore system sizing when selecting your new HVAC equipment. Selecting an energy-efficient model is one facet of being a smart consumer, but buying the most energy-efficient system will do you far less good than it should if the system you buy is too large or too small for your home. The capacity of your equipment needs to match the size of the area being heated or cooled, and it must take other key factors into consideration as well.

What Happens When Your HVAC System is Too Large or Too Small?

A number of issues can occur when your heating or cooling system is the wrong size for your home. Keep these unpleasant consequences of poor system sizing in mind when you are considering which system to buy.

Too-Large System

A system that's too large for your living space is highly inefficient, creating the following problems:

• It uses an unnecessary amount of energy simply because it takes more energy to run a larger system.
• It wastes energy through "short-cycling," turning itself on and off repeatedly and running for only a short time.
• It can create unnecessary noise as excess air moves through the ductwork if the system is more powerful than needed for your home.
• It robs you and your family of the consistent indoor comfort a properly-sized system would provide by creating large temperature swings.
• It creates more wear and tear on the system.
• It fails to remove sufficient humidity from the air since it doesn't run long enough to provide adequate humidity control.

Too-Small System

A system that's too small for your living space is equally inefficient, though in a somewhat different way. A too-small system creates the following problems:

• It runs continuously yet can sometimes fail to maintain the proper comfort level — especially during extreme weather — potentially keeping your home too hot in summer and too cold in winter.
• It might require a supplemental form of heating or cooling to keep you comfortable. This raises costs and offsets the savings from the energy efficiency of the system because the system is switching on and off too frequently.
• It can create unnecessary noise as the air circulates through the air ducts if the ducts are smaller than required for serving your home's HVAC needs.
• It's somewhat more likely to malfunction since it runs continuously, which could mean extra repair bills. The good side to that issue is that by running longer the system should be able to provide adequate humidity control.
• It will require regular maintenance to keep it running optimally and prevent breakdowns since it will tend to be a bit overworked.

Correctly Sized System

A system that is correctly matched to your home's heating or cooling requirements offers the following advantages:

• It operates at optimal efficiency, saving you money on energy costs.
• It keeps your indoor temperature and overall comfort level more consistent.
• It provides proper humidity control, increasing comfort and lowering the likelihood of mold or mildew problems.
• It operates without excessive noise, which could otherwise indicate an improperly sized system or another issue that needs addressing.
• It operates according to its intended specifications, rather than overburdening the system and shortening its life cycle.

System Capacity Ratings: BTUs

The initials BTU stand for British Thermal Unit. This rating is a measure of the system's heating or cooling output per minute. HVAC products are labeled with a BTU rating to give consumers a better idea of the approximate area a given piece of HVAC equipment might be expected to heat or cool under ideal conditions. This rating, however, is not intended to replace the advice of an HVAC professional, who understands all the variables involved and can assess these variables in relation to your specific situation and your particular heating and cooling requirements. While BTUs per minute can get you in the ballpark on system sizing, this measurement can't give you the specifics that will let you know exactly how all the zones in your home figure into the overall system-sizing equation. Therefore, BTU ratings should only be used to roughly estimate the system size you'll be likely to need and should always be double-checked by performing official heating and cooling load calculations.

Key Factors that Determine the Size System You Need

The key factors that play a role in HVAC equipment sizing follow:

• The climate of the area in which you live.
• The size of your home, as well as its shape, design, orientation, number of floors and other features that make it unique.
• The building materials from which your home is made.
• The location, size, type and orientation of your home's windows.
• The insulation and weatherization levels of your home.
• The lights and other heat-generating appliances and their efficiency levels.
• The amount of air leakage into the building from outside, known as air infiltration.

Should You Do the Calculations Yourself?

While the heating and cooling load calculations used for correctly sizing your HVAC equipment aren't difficult, they are fairly involved and take time and patience to complete. While the average person would likely find the calculations more complex than they'd be interested in tackling, if you do decide to handle them on your own, you'll need to make specific calculations for each zone in your home, figuring the area and insulation level of the space and estimating air infiltration. Help is available online if you'd like to try your hand at it. If not — or if your efforts are less than successful — you might want to consider letting a professional do the job for you.

Professional Heating and Cooling Calculations

Commissioning an HVAC specialist to handle your heating and cooling load calculations can save you the stress and hassle of doing the lengthy figuring yourself. It can also help avoid erroneous calculations, which can easily occur due to lack of experience. Your HVAC professional handles these heating and cooling load calculations on a regular basis. The contractor you choose should use the Air Conditioning Contractors of America (ACCA) Manual J, Residential Load Calculations. A specialized computer program and worksheets that are available online can also aid your professional contractor in arriving at the most accurate calculations.

Other ACCA Guidance for Your HVAC Professional

Once your Manual J load calculation is complete, the second step in the process will be selecting the appropriate equipment based on ACCA Manual S, Residential Equipment Selection. Your HVAC professional should refer to Manual S before making any specific equipment recommendations for your home comfort system. If you are purchasing a replacement system and your home is already equipped with ductwork, you won't need the following step since selecting your equipment will complete the system-sizing and equipment-selection process. The only other major consideration will be scheduling your equipment installation with your trusted local HVAC professional.

If you plan to install a complete HVAC system, including ductwork, for a new home-construction project or total building refurbishment, your HVAC specialist will have one more step to follow before designing and installing your system. This industry professional's calculations will include making an educated estimate of the size, number and location of the air ducts your system will require for operation. Getting your system's air distribution system right will help your HVAC equipment perform better and bring your family greater indoor comfort. ACCA Manual D, Residential Duct Design, will provide guidance to your HVAC contractor in sizing and designing the ductwork for your system.

What's Wrong with Rule-of-Thumb Calculations?

Rule-of-thumb calculations are a shortcut some HVAC companies take, rather than going to the trouble of working out the actual heating and cooling load calculations that are needed to ensure that the HVAC system you buy and install in your home is the optimal size for keeping your living space comfortable and energy efficient.

HVAC Equipment Sizing: An Inexact Science but a Science Nonetheless

While sizing your HVAC equipment is a process that's based on scientific principles, it is, nevertheless, an inexact science — and that's precisely why you need to be working with a company that has years of experience in the field and has a NATE-certified HVAC design team in place. Because so many different factors combine to create the specific heating and cooling environment of every home, HVAC system requirements will vary widely. Cooling and heating load calculations are a key variable in the sizing equation — one that's been carefully designed to determine the best system for your family's needs. When used by an experienced and conscientious HVAC professional who takes a serious personal and professional interest in getting it right, this detailed approach to equipment sizing should succeed in helping you acquire a system that will serve you well for years to come, providing energy-efficient operation and optimal comfort for you and your family.

Most systems have a lifetime of 10 to 20 years. As your equipment gets older, it's efficiency can decrease dramatically. You may notice that it gets noisier and needs repairs more often. When a unit begins to show it's age, you have two choices. You can overhaul the system or replace it. Because heating and cooling technologies improve over time, a new system designed with newer, more energy-efficient equipment makes sense, especially if your system is 10 or more years old. We can estimate the cost of a new system as well as a payback schedule that will show you how newer technology will pay you back in lower energy usage.

No. Replacing only the outdoor unit will lower the efficiency of the unit. In fact, you can lose up to 15% of the unit's efficiency! Even worse, your system may fail sooner than normal and most manufacturers' warranties will be voided. You should always replace the indoor cooling coil with the outdoor unit.

No, you don't want your air conditioner to be too big. Air conditioners control the comfort level in your home by cooling the air and by removing humidity. An oversized air conditioner will cool your home faster, but it will use more energy and will not remove humidity adequately.

A unit that is too big for your home will have short run cycles. It may take only a short time to cool the air, but the unit shuts off before enough air blows across the indoor coil where moisture condenses into water and drains from your system. Too much moisture left in the air can lead to mold and mildew problems.

These short run cycles also mean your system starts and stops more often which uses more energy and causes a lot of wear and tear. An air conditioner operates more efficiently during long run cycles.

The same holds true with heating systems. An oversized furnace will warm the house quicker, but it uses more fuel and causes greater temperature swings in the home.

A matched system is important for a variety of reasons. One is comfort. When all your components are properly sized to your home, you can control exactly how much heating or cooling you need so you can relax. Also, a properly sized matched system enables every component to perform as designed, meaning proper cycle times are maintained, humidity is controlled, and system sound is minimized.

Another reason matched systems are important is efficiency. Most systems people buy are too large for their homes, which uses more energy than needed for your home. A matched system outlined by a dealer who has completed a load calculation for your home provides just the right amount of heating and cooling you need so you get the most value for your utility dollar.

At the risk of telling you something you're tired of hearing, replace the air filter in your furnace on a regular basis. Dirty air filters reduce the amount of air flowing through a system and make the furnace work harder to maintain the temperature. How often you change the filter depends on the type of filter you use, if you have pets, and the size of your equipment. Please give us a call and we can give you proper guidance.

Proper air filtration is just as important to the health of your heating and cooling system as it is to the health of your family. Without proper filtration, dust and dirt can build up on your system which impacts operation and efficiency. A high-efficiency filter will remove more dust, dirt, pollen, mold, and other particles from the air. If you suffer from allergies or other respiratory problems, you should strongly consider a high-efficiency filter. No matter what type of filter you have, make sure you change it regularly.

Yes. Keeping your system properly maintained will lower energy and repair costs, prevent breakdowns, and prolong the life of your equipment. Neglecting necessary maintenance ensures a steady decline in air conditioning performance while energy use steadily increases.

Without warranty coverage, a breakdown can mean significant expense in parts, labor, or both. However, with one of our service agreements, you avoid that unexpected significant expense. While no warranty can guard against every possible problem, we can explain the broad range of protection our service agreements afford.

With a high efficiency air cleaner, you can remove up to 99% of the pollen and spores that find their way into the home. There is also a great reduction in household dust, dirt, smoke, and other air pollutants. Your indoor air will become cleaner and fresher while reducing the allergens and dust that circulate throughout the house. With a whole house humidifier, you can relieve the irritating discomfort of dry indoor air. The humidifier reduces itchy skin, scratchy throats, static electricity, and damage to your furnishings and woodwork. Since humid air feels warmer than dry air, you do not have to set the thermostat as high to feel the comfort you want. A lower thermostat setting will reduce the costs of your energy bill.

Molds are part of the natural environment. Outdoors, molds play a part in nature by breaking down dead organic matter such as fallen leaves and dead trees, but indoors, mold growth should be avoided. Molds reproduce by means of tiny spores; the spores are invisible to the naked eye and float through outdoor and indoor air. Mold may begin growing indoors when mold spores land on surfaces that are wet. There are many types of mold, and none of them will grow without water or moisture. Click here to learn more about mold prevention in your home from the EPA.

When humid air passes over chilled cooling coils, water condenses and drips through the coils into a collection pan, from which it continuously drains. Problems with these systems may occur when this water collects and becomes stagnant when it becomes blocked, either on the coils or in the drip pan. The pan will grow mold that can infect your home with dangerous mold spores very quickly. Problems also exist when the HVAC ducting contains microscopic mold spores that stay continually present and blow contaminants around the home or office often caused by mold in other parts of your home.

You can do 3 things to prevent mold growth in your system:

1. Preventative maintenance will ensure that the collection pan under the indoor coil stays clean and clog free.
2. Install ultra violet lights next to the cooling coils to kill any mold or bacteria growing on the coils or collection pan.
3. Keep your ductwork clean and use a high-efficiency filtration system to keep your entire HVAC system clean.

SEER, AFUE and HSPF are all measures of energy efficiency. Air conditioners may look similar, but their Seasonal Energy Efficiency Rating (SEER) can vary widely. Higher SEER numbers save more money spent on electricity. A 13 SEER air conditioner, the EPA "current minimum standard", uses 23% less energy than a 10 SEER unit (EPA standard up until Jan. 2006). Even though 13 SEER is the minimum efficiency available, we currently offer a line of air conditioners that start at 13 SEER and go all the way up to a 21 SEER . Depending on your average usage, higher SEER air conditioners can significantly reduce your electric bill.

Heat pumps have SEER ratings like air conditioners and Heating Seasonal Performance Factor (HSPF) ratings for measuring heating efficiency. Higher HSPF ratings mean greater energy savings. The HSPF scale range is 7.5 to 13.0.

Today's new high-efficiency furnaces can save up to 50% in operating costs over a ten-year-old furnace. Many 1990 and earlier model furnaces have Annual Fuel Utilization Efficiency (AFUE) ratings of 65% or less. The minimum AFUE rated furnace that can be sold in the United States as of May 1, 2013 is 80% in southern states and 90% in northern states.

Our current product offering starts at this minimum AFUE rating and goes all the way to a very efficient 98.3% AFUE rating. Depending on your average usage, higher AFUE rated furnaces can significantly reduce your gas bill.

Cooling

• Upgrade to a high-efficiency air conditioner - Swapping your old, inefficient air conditioning system for a high-efficient one can cut electricity bills by one-third. Consult one of our professional technicians to ensure your system is the right size for your home, and you aren't over- or under-cooling for your space needs.
• Turn up the temperature — To save electricity during the summer, set the temperature above 75° as every degree below this will add an extra three to five percent to your energy bill.
• Install ceiling fans — Change the direction of airflow on your ceiling fans. In the summer, the blades should operate in a counter-clockwise direction as a way of creating a nice, gentle wind.
• Have an annual maintenance performed — Having an annual maintenance performed on your air conditioner by a licensed technician will help ensure it operates at its peak efficiency and catches any potential breakdowns before they occur.
• Don't block vents in well-used rooms — Keep your supply and return air vents free of objects like blinds, carpets or furniture so your air conditioner can operate efficiently and there is even cool air distribution.

Heating

• Upgrade to a high-efficiency furnace — New high-efficiency furnaces use up to 50% less fuel than an older system. It can save you up to 25 percent of your home-heating costs in one year, and within a few years, you'll have recovered the initial cost of replacing/upgrading your furnace. Choosing a model with an energy efficient motor can save 20 to 50 percent of the energy needed to continuously operate a fan motor. Let us show you the advantages of replacing your old furnace today.
• Have an annual maintenance performed — Having an annual maintenance performed on your furnace by a licensed technician will help ensure it operates at its peak efficiency and catches any potential breakdowns before they occur.
• Install a programmable thermostat — A programmable thermostat enables you to control your home's temperature when you're away or asleep. For every 1° you lower your thermostat for seven hours per day, you save one percent on your heating bill.
• Don't block vents in well-used rooms — Keep your supply and return air vents free of objects like blinds, carpets or furniture so your furnace can operate efficiently and there is even heat distribution.
• Install ceiling fans — Change the direction of airflow on your ceiling fans. In the winter, the blades should operate in a clockwise direction helping to push the warm air from the ceiling down into the room.

The average home spends about $1,900 annually on energy bills. Heating and cooling accounts for as much as half of a home's energy use. The EPA provides important recommendations for energy-efficient equipment, including proper sizing, quality installation and maintenance, and other home improvement considerations to help you get the most out of the heating and cooling products you purchase, save energy, and save as much as 20% annually on your total energy costs.

ENERGY STAR qualified products prevent greenhouse gas emissions by meeting strict energy efficiency guidelines set by the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) and the U.S. Department of Energy (DOE).

Heat pumps are a great solution for your home comfort system because they work to provide both heating and cooling. Heat pumps have SEER ratings like air conditioners and Heating Seasonal Performance Factor (HSPF) ratings for measuring heating efficiency. Higher SEER and HSPF ratings mean greater energy savings.

Heat pumps are a very efficient alternative to electric heat. A heat pump works the same as an air conditioner in the summer, but it runs in reverse in the winter to heat your home. The system will be matched with a backup heating source, most often electric heat for those extremely cold days of winter.

Variable speed fans operate on a simple principle: they are able to spin at different speeds depending on the heating and cooling needs of your home. Usually, they operate at lower speeds, delivering a steady, reliable stream of warm or cool air to your home. This helps control humidity levels, utility costs and system noise. When conditions become more extreme, the fan speed increases so that the system can meet increased demand, guaranteeing that on even the hottest days or coldest nights, you're comfort needs will be met.

2-stage cooling is a method of cooling that can better manage the cooling of your home while outdoor temperatures are changing. It can also better maximize indoor comfort and energy efficiency. 2-stage cooling systems are typically the most energy efficient systems out there.

2-stage cooling can be done by having one unit with two compressors, one small and one large. The small one is typically capable of putting out about 50% the capacity of the larger one. The second way to have 2-stage cooling is to have a single scroll unloading compressor. This compressor can unload its capacity down to about 66% of maximum capacity. Both these methods of getting 2-stage cooling allow the unit to run at a lower stage when the high stage is not needed. By doing this, energy is saved.

2-stage heating has the same principle as 2-stage cooling. It allows the unit to adjust itself based on the amount of heating that is necessary. 2-stage heating is a good way to save on heating costs.

A heat pump system would have two different sized compressors, a small and a large one. The compressor that is used at a given time would depend upon the need. If only a small amount of heating is necessary, the smaller compressor would be used to save energy. The large compressor would only be used when a large amount of heating was needed.

A gas furnace that is 2-stage has a modulating gas valve that regulates gas flow depending upon the need.

Normal cooling settings are 75 degrees - 80 degrees. Normal heating settings are 68 degrees - 72 degrees. You should always set your thermostat to the highest possible setting that is comfortable for you in the summer, and the lowest comfortable setting in the winter. Setting your thermostat in this way will maximize your energy savings. On average, every 1 degree of temperature change is equal to about 1% energy savings. For example, changing your thermostat setting from 75 degrees to 76 degrees in the summer could result in savings on your cooling costs.

This can occur for many reasons; uneven solar heat load through windows, an undersized system, improperly balanced or clogged system or a single system serving a two-story home with no zoning control. Each situation is different, usually requiring an onsite analysis with problem specific recommendations. Please call to arrange for us to see your home.

Yes. As of January 2010 the refrigerant R-22 (what consumers call Freon®) is no longer allowed to be used in the manufacturing of new equipment. R-22 has been used as the "standard" refrigerant for many years but has been found to be harmful to our planet by our government. All new air conditioners and heat pumps use R-410A, the more "environmentally sound" refrigerant.

R-22 is still the most commonly used refrigerant in existing air conditioning equipment in residential homes today. However, per the Montreal Protocol, caps have been established to eliminate the production of R-22. In 2004, there was a 35% reduction; in 2010 there was a 65% reduction; in 2015 a 90% reduction; and finally in 2020 a 99.5% reduction in the production of R-22. This means that during the time of these reductions with high demand, the price of each pound of R-22 refrigerant could potentially skyrocket.

If you are considering replacing your existing air conditioning equipment, most higher efficiency products have already made the switch to R-410A, the more "environmentally sound" refrigerant.

A difference of 6 decibels (such as between 72 dB and 78 dB) is technically a four-fold increase in compressor sound when rating air conditioners or heat pump units. However, it takes a difference of 10 decibels to double the loudness. It is also noted that it takes approximately 3 decibels for the average human ear to discern any difference in loudness at all.

Great strides have been made in reducing the operating sound level of equipment. We will be happy to show you the difference in sound ratings with our product line.

Yes. Each year, carbon monoxide kills more than 200 Americans and sends nearly 5,000 more to emergency rooms for treatment, reports the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC). Where does it come from? When carbon-based fuels such as gas, oil, kerosene or wood burn, they produce gases. When fuel combustion or burning isn't complete, carbon monoxide enters the air. The CPSC advises that carbon monoxide detectors are the only way to alert yourself to the presence of toxic gas in your home. If you wake in the night with a headache -- and especially if another member of the family complains of a headache or is difficult to arouse -- get out of the house fast and seek medical help. We recommend carbon monoxide detectors be installed in your home!

Propane (LP) gas: You have this type if your gas comes from a tank located outside close to your house. Propane is stored as a liquid under pressure in tanks and cylinders. In most residential applications, propane is used as a vapor. When liquid propane changes into a gas vapor, it expands in volume. This means that even a small leak of liquid propane can result in a much larger quantity of propane vapor, which can be especially dangerous in a confined space. A chemical odorant has been added to propane to give it a distinct smell. Learn to identify this odor. Propane gas is heavier than air, so it will sink to the floor and spread. To check for the presence of propane, carefully smell all over a room, especially in low spots.

If you smell propane (LP) gas:

• Exit your home immediately.
• Propane gas can ignite easily. Do not light a match, start an engine, use a cell phone, or do anything that may create a spark.
• From a safe area, contact your propane supplier and call 911.
• If you are able, shut the propane gas supply off at the tank.
• Stay away from your home until you've been told that it is safe to return.

Natural gas: You have this type if you have a gas meter and pay a natural gas supplier or utility. A chemical odorant has been added to natural gas to give it a distinct smell. Learn to identify this odor.

If you smell natural gas:

• Exit your home immediately.
• Do not light a match, start an engine, use a cell phone, or do anything that may create a spark.
• From a safe area, contact your gas company or call 911.
• If you are able, turn the gas off at the meter.
• Stay away from your home until you've been told that it is safe to return.

The water heater Energy Factor (EF) is a measure of the overall efficiency of the water heater. This is determined by comparing the energy in the heated water used daily to the total daily energy consumption of the water heater. The EF can be used to compare the energy efficiency of water heaters. Water heaters with higher EFs will have lower annual operating costs than comparable models with lower EFs. A higher EF signifies a more efficient model. Water heaters with high EF ratings may cost more initially, but save energy and money in the long run. Eventually, they will pay for themselves through a lifetime of energy savings.

For most water heaters, the anode rod is attached to the hot water outlet of the water heater. If you are facing the front of the water heater (where the labels are), the hot water outlet is on the left hand side. The anode rod is often referred to as a "sacrificial rod".

Most water is rarely "pure". It can contain oxygen, magnesium, fluoride, chlorine and suspended particles. These components, in the concentrations in your water, are usually not bad for you. However, they do contribute to the taste and smell of the water. They also impart a slight conductivity to the water. Through an electrical process called electrolysis, this conductivity will eventually (over a long period of time) cause most metal to rust or corrode. When the water is heated, this electrical process can be accelerated.

Most water heaters are made of a steel tank with a porcelain enamel (glass) lining. However, due to production and assembly methods, it is not always possible to completely cover the inside of the tank. Therefore it is important to provide metal that can be consumed by the electrical process. This is where the sacrificial anode rod comes in. By acting as a lightning rod for the corrosion process, the anode rod draws the harmful electrolytic process away from the water heater tank and focuses the corrosion on the anode rod. Water heaters need this sacrificial anode rod to ensure that the electrolysis does not affect the tanks.

The answer may be that you have sediment buildup in your tank. As water heaters age, they tend to accumulate sediment and lime deposits. If the heaters are not cleaned periodically, the sediment may rise to a level that will act as a barrier between the burner and the water, making it harder to heat. An article published in a national ASPE plumbing journal states: for every half inch of sediment on the bottom of a gas fired water heater, it requires up to 70% more fuel to heat the water.

Yes. The Air-Conditioning, Heating and Refrigeration Institute (AHRI) recommends that any flood-damaged heating and cooling equipment be replaced, not repaired. From the AHRI website, as it pertains to water heaters:

"Whether your water heater is gas-fired, oil-fired or electric, if it was exposed to flood water, the unit should be replaced. In a gas unit, valves and controls will likely corrode. In an electric unit, the thermostat and controls will likely corrode. In both types, the insulation surrounding the unit will be contaminated and will be nearly impossible to disinfect. Additionally, the insulation would take a long time to dry, leading to corrosion of the tank from the outside.

Even if water heater components have been cleaned and the unit seems to operate properly, parts may corrode in the future. Both gas and electric water heaters have a pressure relief valve that can corrode and stick after being exposed to flood water. Therefore, be sure to replace this valve as well."

(Taken from www.ahrinet.org)

At the suggestion of AHRI, be sure to have your inspection and replacement work performed by a qualified professional.

With the increasing costs of energy and a desire for environmental friendliness, some customers are turning to the sun as a way to heat their domestic water. Bradford White manufactures a solar water heating storage tank for use with solar systems. This tank takes the heated water from the solar panels and uses it as a heat source instead of conventional gas, oil or electric heat sources unlike other tanks, this water heater has an electric heating element for back up on cloudy days, and when the solar system is not providing enough heat. However, it is important that you use only POTABLE (or domestic use) water in this tank.

A water heater should be placed in an area that will prevent damage to floors, ceilings, and furniture if the heater leaks. When this is not possible, a drain pan must be installed under the water heater. Since a typical drain pan doesn't hold that much water, it must have a pipe to a drain or other outlet for the water. When installed properly, a drain pan and pipe will keep any leakage under control and protect your belongings from water damage.

We recommend that you contact a plumbing professional to perform any maintenance or repairs to your water heater - from periodic checks on the anode rod to ensuring that all connections are secure. Recommendations for maintenance are in your water heater's owner manual. However, there are a few things that you can do:

• Ensure that there are no sources of flammable vapors in the same area as your water heater (this includes gasoline, heating oils, lighter fluid, propane, etc.).
• Keep the top of the water heater clean. If you notice water dripping on the water heater from any piping, contact a plumbing professional to have the leak repaired.
• Keep the space around your water heater clean and free of dirt, boxes, paint cans, aerosol cans, household cleaners and trash. It is important to keep the heater accessible for proper operation and easy maintenance.